Vintage chronograph wristwatches occupy the most desired tier of the watch collecting world. This reference list covers the consistently top-performing references at major auction houses.
1. Rolex Daytona “Paul Newman” Reference 6239 / 6241 / 6263 / 6265
The exotic-dial Daytonas of the 1960s–early 1980s, named for actor Paul Newman who wore reference 6239. Multiple dial variants (Mark I through Mark IV) command different premiums. The Newman family’s personal 6239 sold publicly for $17.7 million in 2017, establishing the modern wristwatch auction record.
2. Patek Philippe Reference 1518
The first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch (1941–1954). Fewer than 300 produced; steel examples are extreme rarities and have brought eight-figure auction results.
3. Patek Philippe Reference 2499
The successor to the 1518, produced from 1951 to 1985 across four series. Each series has distinct case, dial, and movement details that drive specialist collecting.
4. Omega Speedmaster Reference 105.012 (Pre-Moon)
The reference worn during the Apollo 11 lunar landing. Read more →
5. Omega Speedmaster Reference CK 2915
The original Speedmaster reference (1957–1959), produced before the line transitioned to the asymmetric professional case. CK 2915-1 examples with original “broad arrow” hands are blue-chip vintage Omega.
6. Heuer Carrera (1960s “First Execution”)
Founder Jack Heuer’s 1963 design that defined the racing chronograph aesthetic. References 2447S, 2447SN, and 2447NT in original-paint condition lead the vintage Heuer market.
7. Rolex Daytona Reference 6263 / 6265 (Manual Wind, “Big Red” or “Sigma” Dial)
The screw-down pusher manual-wind Daytonas of the 1970s. Various dial executions including “Big Red” Daytona text and Sigma-marked dials command premiums.
8. Vacheron Constantin Reference 4178 (“Cornes de Vache”)
The 1955 chronograph distinguished by its “cow horn” lug profile. Fewer than 50 examples produced; among the rarest vintage Vacherons.
9. Audemars Piguet Vintage Manual Chronographs
AP’s pre-Royal Oak chronograph references, including 5083 (1939) and various 1940s–50s manual-wind references, occupy a niche but valuable corner of the vintage market.
10. Universal Genève Tri-Compax
The triple-calendar moon-phase chronograph from the late 1940s–1950s, particularly references 22279, 222100, and the rare “Eric Clapton” steel Tri-Compax 881101 owned by the musician.
What Drives Value
- Original-paint dial (no service or restoration)
- Original Caliber (no movement swap during service)
- Sharp, unpolished case with original lug bevels
- Period-correct hands and crown
- Original bracelet or strap with reference-correct end-links
- Full set provenance (box, papers, hangtags, original receipt)
Reference Resources
- Phillips Bacs & Russo essay archive
- Christie’s, Sotheby’s, and Antiquorum auction catalogues
- Hodinkee Reference Points series
- The Vintage Rolex Forum and Omega Forums
See Also
Vintage watch values are sensitive to originality, condition, and provenance. Always verify through major auction comparables before transacting.