Reprint versus counterfeit
A reprint is a banknote produced by the issuing authority after the original print run, often using the same plates but different paper, serials, or watermarks. A counterfeit is a deliberately deceptive imitation by a third party. Both reduce value relative to genuine first-issue notes; counterfeits have zero collector value and may be illegal to own in some jurisdictions.
Paper and feel
Genuine US currency uses a 75 percent cotton, 25 percent linen blend with embedded red and blue threads. Modern counterfeits using inkjet or laser-printed standard paper feel smoother, lack the threads, and fail under UV light testing. Pre-1990 currency lacks the modern security features but still uses distinctive cotton-blend paper.
Serial numbers and seals
Genuine serial numbers are pressed into the paper with slight indentation visible under raking light. Counterfeit serial numbers are printed flat. Treasury seals on genuine notes show distinct fibre patterns where the ink soaks into the paper; counterfeits show ink sitting on the surface.
When in doubt
Any note with declared value above face value should be authenticated by PMG or PCGS Currency before purchase. Both services offer counterfeit detection as part of their standard grading process and will return suspect notes ungraded with detailed notes.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is this art and prints guide suitable for beginners?
Yes — this guide is written to be accessible to new collectors while remaining useful for intermediate enthusiasts. We layer foundational concepts with practical examples, expected price ranges, and authentication checkpoints so you can read once and reference repeatedly. If you are completely new, we recommend reading our beginner’s roadmap (/start-here/) alongside this material.
How current is the information in this art and prints guide?
This guide reflects 2026 market conditions, grading standards, and authentication best practices. We periodically refresh content as auction records, grading-service criteria, and counterfeit techniques evolve. The guide’s last-updated timestamp shown by your browser corresponds to our most recent factual review.
What’s the most common mistake collectors make in art and prints?
Buying before learning. The hobby rewards patience: collectors who spend the first 60-90 days reading, attending shows, watching auction results, and asking questions in established communities consistently outperform those who buy aggressively from day one. Education compounds; impulse purchases rarely do.
Where can I get items in art and prints authenticated?
For most categories, established third-party authenticators include PSA, BGS, CGC, and SGC for cards; PCGS and NGC for coins; BBCE for sealed Pokémon and sports wax; AFA for toys; and recognized industry experts or auction-house specialists for watches, autographs, and fine collectibles. Independent verification typically costs $20-$200 and is well worth it for any item over $500. See our /authentication-hub/ for category-specific recommendations.
How do I sell art and prints for the best price?
Match the venue to the value. Items under $100: eBay or Facebook collector groups. Items $100-$1,000: eBay with strong photography and detailed descriptions, or category-specific platforms (StockX, Discogs, Catawiki). Items over $1,000: established auction houses (Heritage, Goldin, Christie’s, Phillips) or vetted dealer consignment. Avoid pawn shops (typical offers: 20-40% of fair value) and unverified buyers offering instant cash.