Vintage signed jewelry from the major houses produces extraordinary auction prices. Here are some of the records.
1. Wallis Simpson’s Flamingo Brooch by Cartier (1940)
Designed by Jeanne Toussaint for Cartier. Sold at Sotheby’s in 2010 from the Duchess of Windsor’s estate for $1.7 million.
2. Tutti Frutti Bracelet by Cartier
The famous “carved sapphires, rubies, and emeralds” Indian-influenced creations. Top examples reach $1-3 million at Sotheby’s and Christie’s.
3. Bulgari Trombino Ring (Burton-Taylor)
Pieces from Elizabeth Taylor’s Bulgari collection. Top examples reach $300,000-$1.5 million.
4. Van Cleef & Arpels Mystery Set Pieces (1930s-1950s)
Signed pieces with the famous mystery setting (no visible prongs). Top examples reach $400,000-$1.2 million.
5. Cartier Panther Brooches (Wallis Simpson, 1948)
Sold at Sotheby’s for £4.5 million ($6.8 million) in 2010 — the panther bracelet by Cartier.
6. Bulgari Serpenti Watch (1950s-1960s)
Iconic snake-form watches. Top examples reach $200,000-$700,000.
7. Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger Pieces
Jean Schlumberger’s Tiffany work. Top examples reach $300,000-$1 million.
8. Belperron Modernist Pieces (1930s-1940s)
Suzanne Belperron’s signed jewelry. Top examples reach $250,000-$800,000.
9. Boucheron Question Marks (1880s-1900s)
Belle Époque question-mark necklaces. Top examples reach $150,000-$500,000.
10. Lalique Art Nouveau Pieces (1900-1910)
René Lalique’s signed jewelry from his glass-and-jewel period. Top examples reach $200,000-$700,000.
Authentication
Original signed pieces from the major houses (Cartier, Van Cleef, Bulgari, Tiffany) carry maker’s marks, hallmarks, and serial numbers. The houses themselves provide expertise services for high-value pieces. Buy through Sotheby’s, Christie’s, Phillips, or Bonhams jewelry departments.
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